I made it to Port Hardy yesterday afternoon after 6 wonderful and solitary days kayaking roughly 170 miles through Desolation Sound, the Discovery Islands and then along the northern shore of Johnstone Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound.
Saying it’s been beautiful is an utter understatement. As soon as I left Lund (some 10 miles west of Powell River) behind, and especially once I had passed the Yuculta and Dent rapids with the respective lodges and some fishing resorts, I was pretty much alone. Occasionally there was a sailing boat cruising by or a fishing boat, but that’s pretty much it.
A good test for what’s to come as I go further north I think.
I found some amazing camp sites and definitely tested the limits of camping near the water. After all I got this tent for small foot print allowing me to pitch it on narrow shelves. Tested here:
Had to get creative on staking it dow. Had some amazing sunset views out of bed — and noticed the water level already rising.
I found myself setting an alarm for 10:30pm, an hour before high tide as I was starting to get doubts whether I’d be high enough. It was fine that night.
Well, I guess I had to test the limits further. Another night, I had the choice between pitching my tent a dark forest (really don’t like that…) or tugged at the upper most part of the beach. Sorta assuming they would be sufficient. It barely was, water came almost all the way to the tent… Again, I had set my alarm to 11:30pm, one hour before high tide. The water came closer and closer and I already started to pack my bags, but then decided to stay, or at least give it a real try. Well, it all worked out, luckily it was a very calm night. But I didn’t sleep to well I gotta say…
For reference, the next morning, just about 6hrs after high tide, it looked like this — well, that’s a 15 ft tidal range. And while I knew it before I just didn’t want to believe it. But now I do!
And hence, the next nights I did the thing that people seem to do here — pitch your tent in the forest. Not my preferrence but at some point it’s nice to not wake up every night. 2 days ago I called this fairy tale like little forest my home for the night:
Being still pretty scared of bears, going into such a foresty area is pretty exciting. Imagine me talking to “Mr Bear” loudly, shaking my little bear bell and here, honestly, I just started to play some music on my phone (think Electro Swing — found my self doing a little dance too).
I had combined 2 days and skipped the only place where I was sure there’d be water on day 2. So the search for a spring or any sort of fresh water began. It’s pretty dry, so actually not a lot of streams seem to be running and the tips I got from Ken where on place I had already passed. My heart sank by the idea to stop at some of the resorts (mostly because they would have meant to split my well-timed run through the rapids into two), so I pushed my luck a bit, and paddeling close to the shore of Sonora Island I could suddenly hear some water noise. I saw some lush ferns growing, pulled over and stumbled through the bushes finding a decent sized stream to filter. I guess that’s a pretty normal experience, but as it goes, first times are always exciting. I ended up loading a total of 25 liters of water into my boat so at least it would be good for a few days…
Saw my first humpback whale as I got into Johnstone Strait, since then there’s a whale at least once a day (still no Orcas…), there are so many bald eagles everywhere, seals, stellar sea lions, minks (not weasels apparently), sea otters, porpoises.
Alright, just a random drop of pictures of this insanely beautiful area. I love these little islands (sleeped one one — in the forest of course!). Had some intense sunsets.
Looking towards Vancouver Islands, I’ve been having these grandiose views of partially snow-covered mountains.
The very last few miles into Port Hardy, just around Beaver Harbour were especially stunning. Lots of small islands, covered with a dense mix of old trees, moss hanging from their branches, and the floor covered in moss and berry fields. Wind picking up, some dark clouds approaching, it stated raining, making this world even more mysterious.
Ok, gotta go — it’s time for my 2nd breakfast now!
